![]() In this case, I’m not talking about an outline around the outside of finished satin stitch, but rather an outline over the design line, over which you work the satin stitch. Satin Stitch Tip #4: Stitch the Right Outline First Some Notes on Satin Stitch is an article I wrote previously that illustrates the question of stitch length. You can make modifications, depending on the weight of the thread you’re using and so forth, but for one strand of regular floss, anything over half an inch gets into dangerous territory – and, if your stitching isn’t padded, half an inch might even be too long! Otherwise, 3/8″ – 1/2″ for a satin stitch is a good rule of thumb. But this only because the padding will provide support and friction to help keep your stitches in place. If your satin stitch is padded, you can get away with a larger area to cover – up to, for example, an inch-long satin stitch. The larger the area, the more prone the stitches will be to loosening up. Satin stitch works best when it is used in a relatively small area. Because the fabric was meant for counted work, I ran into some difficulties getting a really smooth edge on my satin stitch. I decided to alter the kit a little and work with surface embroidery stitches instead, including a satin stitched monogram. When I embroidered this monogrammed needle book, the design was originally intended to be a counted cross stitch design. If your fabric has a more open weave, consider backing it with a high count cotton muslin, to give your satin stitches something to hold onto. Fabrics with spaces between the warp and weft threads make it more difficult to achieve a smooth, straight edge with satin stitch. If your embroidery project is going to include satin stitch, choose a ground fabric that has a high count and a firm, full weave. Here are some articles that will help you understand these threads and concepts:Ĭotton Floche vs Coton a Broder Satin Stitch Tip #2: The Fabric Makes a Difference Threads like perle cotton are also non-divisible, but they have a tighter twist, which makes for a bumpier looking surface when using them for satin stitch. They come off the skein in a single thread (they aren’t meant to be split), they have a soft, low twist that gives them a good “spread”, and they have a nice sheen. Both of these threads work up into a beautiful satin stitch. Some threads are, by their very structure, non-divisible, like floche or coton a broder. This includes cotton floss (like DMC), stranded silk (like Soie d’Alger, Soie de Paris, Silk Mill silk, Madeira silk, Caron Waterlilies, and so forth) Using a non-divisible thread with a softer twist for the top-most layer of satin stitch will give you the best results when you want to achieve a smooth surface.įor example, using a single strand of embroidery floss works better than using two strands in the needle at once. ![]() Some threads work better than others for achieving a smooth satin stitch. Satin Stitch Tip #1: The Thread Makes a Difference If you’ve experienced difficulties with satin stitch, these ten tips will help you produce a sensational satin stitch! Satin stitch is one of those stitches that either looks absolutely terrific….or not very terrific at all.īut when satin stitch looks bumpy and clumpy and wobbly ….wellllll. Or my stitches aren’t as silky smooth as they should be. There have been times when I’ve been satin stitching along, all perfectly happy, when suddenly, I notice my direction has shifted. Style.īut on the other hand, there’s one thing I don’t like about it: sometimes, it’s a hard stitch to get right! I love it – I consider it the Queen of Embroidery Stitches. If I had to pick an embroidery stitch that I have mixed feelings about, it’s the satin stitch. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |